Frequently Asked Questions

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Help! My New Hognose Won’t Eat: A Troubleshooting Guide

Bringing home a new Western Hognose is exciting, but it can be stressful when they refuse their first meals. Before you panic, remember that hognoses are sensitive to their environment. Here are the five most common reasons for a "hunger strike" and how to fix them.

1. The Acclimation Period

Are you trying to feed too soon? Moving to a new home is a major life event for a snake. You should wait at least one full week after bringing your hognose home before offering food. This allows them time to explore their territory and realize they are safe from predators. Avoid handling them during this first week—excessive touch can lead to stress-related fasting.

2. Enclosure Size and Security

Is the setup too big or elaborate? While we want to give our pets the best, "bigger" isn't always "better" for a baby hognose. In the wild, a small snake in a wide-open space is a snack for a bird.

• The Hatchling Perspective: Everything is huge and scary to      them. If a juvenile is in an enclosure that is too large, they may feel      exposed and refuse to eat.
• Our Method: We raise our babies in      specialized rack tubs (roughly 13" x 3" x 2"). This smaller      footprint makes them feel secure. If your enclosure is large, ensure it      has plenty of clutter (leaves, hides, and deep substrate) so the snake can      move around without being seen.

3. Temperature Regulation

Do you have a heat source and a thermostat? Snakes are ectothermic; they rely on external heat to "jumpstart" their metabolism. If a hognose feels it isn't warm enough to digest its meal, it will instinctively refuse to eat to avoid the food rotting in its stomach.

• The Goal: Aim for a warm-side temperature      of 84–85°F.
• Safety First: Always use a thermostat to      prevent overheating and ensure a consistent thermal gradient.

4. Environmental & Seasonal Changes

What is the weather doing? Snakes are highly sensitive to barometric pressure and seasonal shifts.

• Storms: Low pressure can trigger      breeding instincts or appetite changes.
• Winter Spells: If your home is drafty or the      room temperature drops, your snake may think it’s time for      "brumation" (hibernation). If your house runs cool in the      winter, try bumping your thermostat up a degree or two to compensate. If      the snake feels the "summer" warmth, they will usually get back      on track.

5. Consistency in Routine

What (and how) are you feeding? All our babies are sold only after they have successfully eaten 10 consecutive meals of frozen-thawed, unscented pinky mice.

• Stay the Course: If your snake misses a week or      two, do not panic. You don't need to immediately switch to live      prey or start scenting with tuna or toad.
• Check for Shed: Look for dull scales or cloudy      "blue" eyes. Most hognoses will refuse food while in their shed      cycle.
• Look for Variables: If they stop eating suddenly,      ask yourself what changed. Is there a new light in the room? Is the      enclosure in a high-traffic area? Usually, there is an external reason for      a skipped meal.

6. Specialized Feeding Strategies

If your husbandry is perfect but your hognose is still being shy, try one of these two proven methods to encourage a strike. Both methods work by increasing the snake's sense of security and ensuring they "bump into" their food.

The Deli Cup Method

If you still have the deli cup your snake came home in, don't throw it away—it’s a powerful feeding tool.

• The Setup: Place a thawed pinky mouse along      the outer bottom edge of the cup.
• The Process: Place your snake inside the cup      and secure the lid. Put the cup back into the enclosure on the warm side      and turn off the lights to ensure it is dark and quiet.
• Why it works: As the snake "surfs"      the perimeter of the cup, it will repeatedly come face-to-face with the      mouse. In this small, enclosed space, their natural feeding response often      overrides their shyness. Leave them alone for a few hours, and you’ll      likely find an empty cup and a full snake.

The Paper Bag Method

Similar to the deli cup, this creates a "super-hide" that concentrates the scent of the prey.

• The Setup: Place the snake and the pinky      inside a small brown paper lunch bag. Fold the top over and secure it      (using a paperclip or tape, making sure no sticky adhesive is exposed to      the snake).
• The Process: Leave the bag in the warm area      of the tank for 2 to 4 hours, or even overnight. The total darkness and      concentrated scent frequently trigger a successful meal.

Final Advice: Don't Panic!

All of our babies are sold after eating at least 10 consecutive, unscented meals. They are established eaters. If they miss a week or two, it is almost always due to an external factor like weather, shed, or relocation stress. Stay patient, keep your routine consistent, and your hognose will be back to its greedy self in no time.

Questions? Contact us at www.hillcountryhognoses.com or email at hchognose@gmail.com

We believe in breeding healthy and happy reptiles with the animals best interest always first

Yes, we can ship reptiles all over the United States. We ship Fed-Ex Priority overnight. Contact us with specifics for a quote!

Your snake came with a unique ID#. If there is any specific info for your snake that was not covered at purchase, contact us with the ID# and we can answer any questions you may have!

 Hognose snakes are small, hardy colubrids. Males typically average 18–24 inches, whereas females are noticeably larger and more robust, reaching lengths of 24–36 inches."